The Snow Walls of Murodo

Our most recent trip to Japan wasn’t the usual Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka cities that most tourist visit. This time, we flew to Nagoya. And from there, we hopped on a bus for about 4 hours to Toyama City, a place framed by the dramatic backdrop of the Northern Japan Alps. We could have opted for a shinkansen but decided to take the cheaper albeit scenic route since we weren’t in a rush. We didn't feel the need to squeeze in as many attractions as we want since we had only one place in mind when we booked this trip: the snow walls.

If I’m being honest, Toyama City is a place most tourists would probably skip. But that’s what I like about it. Toyama is laid-back and not touristy at all. It felt like a city that moved at its own unhurried pace, and honestly, I loved that vibe. There isn’t a long list of things to do there. But one highlight was visiting what’s been dubbed as the most beautiful Starbucks in the world, located at Kansui Park. And yes, I ran for 5km there. The place was picture-perfect with a serene view of the park and a calm lake reflecting the sky.

We also got to visit the Toyama Science Museum. Of course, my husband’s geek heart was so, so happy. It’s a modest-sized museum, probably made for kids because going there made us feel like kids again. We walked through the exhibits and pressed all the buttons we probably weren’t supposed to. And for the first time ever, we saw things we only got to see in textbooks and documentaries, like an actual fossil up close. 

But the best part and the very reason for this trip was visiting Mt. Tate or Tateyama, one of Japan’s three sacred mountains. It is part of the famous Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route. 

We initially planned to book the Kurobe Alpine route through Klook for around Php8,000 per head. But by the time we were ready to book, tickets were sold out. Needless to say, we were bummed. So we ended up doing a DIY trip instead, and it turned out so much better. The Klook tour would’ve had us on a strict schedule. Imagine going on a 5-hour bus ride from Nagoya, having a quick lunch stop somewhere along the way, then being given 1.5 hours to explore Murodo, and after that, another 5-hour ride back. That didn’t sit right with us.

(Left) Early morning countryside view going to Tateyama with the Japan alps in the background. (Right) Shomyo Falls

With us going on a DIY, we got to take our time. We stayed at APA Hotel, which is just a few minutes walk to the Dentetsu-Toyama Station where we boarded the 5:50 AM (first trip) train to Tateyama Station. A roundtrip ticket from Dentetsu-Toyama to Murodo costs 10,220 JPY per head. 

Landscape going to Murodo

Going there, we enjoyed the countryside scenery. At 7:30 we hopped on a cable car to Bidjodaira Station. Then we transferred to a bus and made our way to Murodo, arriving around 8:30 AM. 

The whole ride up was actually really relaxing with beautiful views along the way. We even stopped to see Shōmyō Falls, Japan's highest waterfall.

Waiting for our coffee.

Murodo is situated at an elevation of 2,450m above sea level. We took our time enjoying the the snowy landscapes, had coffee at a mountaintop, ate firefly squid soba, and even spotted a raicho (thunder bird) in the wild. It's rare alpine bird native to the area. And I would like to believe that’s where the Pokemon name, Raichu, came from. Haha! 

L-R: entrance to the snow wall, raicho (rock ptarmigan), toxic volcanic gasses below

We came for the snow walls, but we were surprised to find there was so much more to see and do.

Left: Mikuriga-ike pond (volcanic crater). Right: 22° halo behind us while waiting for our coffee.

Then at around 10am, we walked through the famous snow wall.

In case you are wondering, the snow wall usually opens from mid-April to mid-June every year. The exact dates vary depending on snowfall. During winter, snow accumulates up to 20 meters. Then it would be plowed with massive snowplows cutting through these towering snowdrifts to clear a path for buses. The snow wall stretches for about 500 meters. The walls gradually shrink as they melt, and the opportunity to see them typically ends by mid-late June.

We visited on May 27, 2025. At the time, the highest point of the snow wall was 15 meters. It was one of the amazing things we have ever seen.

Japan does have a way of blending serenity, adventure, and a touch of magic in even its lesser-known places. And while the bright lights of Tokyo and the charm of Kyoto will always have their place, this trip to Tateyama felt like standing in a living painting made of snow and sky, and we’re so glad we got to experience it.